2007 Spain Travelogue

Introduction

Links To Days

October 20, 2007

Diane dropped me off at the train station, and for the first time in six years, I was completely out of contact. I had no phone, no cell phone, and no way to be reached. It was completely weird and it took me a long time to get used to it.

In the airport I talked to a group of four women from Scotland who had spent a week in NYC. I asked if they'd been to art museums. The one I was talking to lowered her voice, and said "No culture, just shopping, for these" and I thought that was really funny.

The flight, to Madrid, was uneventful. A very serious young woman in a row seat took some good sunrise pictures. I asked her to take some with my camera, but they did not come out very well.

I exchanged some money in the airport. 50 American dollars at 1.47. It fascinated me that there were two companies offering exchange; and the other offered higher rates (1.51, for example) and yet more people were in that line.

I didn't know how to find the Atocha train station, so I asked. People were helpful. I took Metro to Nuevos Ministerios station and then a "RENFE Cercanias" train to Atocha. The train stations were very clean and spacious, although Atocha is a bit hectic. Atocha has this indoor garden which is really big. You can see turtles in the first picture.

I stopped for lunch at an "Autogrill", and this was my first real welcome to Madrid. I ordered "ensalada" without realizing it was a salad bar. The server, a talkative and energetic woman, gestured and spoke rapid Spanish until I got it. The salads looked like nothing I'd ever seen before: a mixed fish salad; corn; round onions; and a ham salad with carrot. It wasn't expensive, and I got a Coke too (so much better in Europe).

I figured out how to buy tickets to Toledo (just under 9 €) and the train ride was short - only 30 minutes or so.

Coming out of Toledo's train station, I was stunned right away - it was so much more beautiful than I'd expected. This view is looking up the steep hill. I didn't really know where I was going, but I could see the old city, and I wanted to start in Zocodover, a square in town. Here's another view from a little further along and then in the next one may be a little before the bridge. I knew the bridge was old, but didn't know much about it. The view from the bridge is beautiful and I liked seeing the different kinds of brick (and graffiti) in the wall.

I got very, very lost in the old city. As is true in Italy, the streets change their names very often. I was pulling my suitcase, and it made a lot of noise on the cobblestones, so sometimes I carried it. I didn't feel at risk anywhere, though. It was a big surprise to me that most people there do not speak much English. Eventually I got some help, and found my way to Hostal Santo Tomé. The guy showed me my room; his English was fine. The room was very clean.

Near Santo Tomé is the church, which has El Greco's famous Burial of the Count of Orgaz It was packed in there, so I didn't get as long of a look as I might have liked. I wandered down to the park, and saw a store and a synagogue, both of which were closed. I had a beer in the park nearby. The park was also gorgeous, and peaceful. I love it that in Europe you can drink right out in the open like that; and people generally do not violate the unspoken prohibition against public drunkenness.

I looked for the El Greco museum collection, which had been moved, and it was closed too. I found the other synagogue, which is famous for having Moorish arches inside. It has nothing else in it that would let you know it was a synagogue; the upper floor (for the women) is long-gone. I thought it was worth a few euro to see the arches amidst Christian church stuff. (it was also a church at one point)

I decided that I needed to be able to find my way around; so I took a walk so that I could find Zocodover again. I liked this one walkway and I eventually found Zocodover, and all the shops in between selling a huge variety of things, including guns, knives and swords.

I also found an outdoor cafe. I ordered a beer; the guy came out and told me it was a restaurant; I would have to order food if I wanted the beer. I had "Andalusian gazpacho", which was indeed tasty - very different than what I make. (It is pureed, no pieces, and has a bit of a creamy texture) I talked to a couple of Americans who were using Rick Steves too, and they were stopping at all of his "three triangle" places.

I did a lot of people-watching - people look similar to how they look in Italy. The men are slightly scruffy and handsome; the women wear scarves with everything.

I went back to the hotel and slept for a few hours. The room overlooked the street, and I had to be careful not to worry about noise. It was going to be noisy; I wasn't there to worry about it.

After I got up, I walked around a lot more. I went by the cathedral which is spectacular, and I went back to Zocodover and saw the entering gate at night.

I heard very little English. It turns out that most visitors to Toledo come on day-trips from Madrid, and don't stay the night. I enjoyed it - it got a bit quieter.

I had an interesting experience at dinner, though. I was tired and chose Gambrinus, which was near my hotel. The guy couldn't speak English; they didn't want to seat me outside (I never figured out why), and I ordered cochifrito, which I thought was a stew. It turns out to be fried pieces of something - pig? - lamb? - and it was served with fried potatoes. I ate it - it wasn't his fault, after all - but it wasn't something I would normally eat. That's what I get for winging it, without a dictionary, without much Spanish skill.

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